I very much appreciate your comment.
I resealed the 3pt hitch lift cylinder which was very simple.
As for the rest of the hydraulics - the front end loader has 4 double acting cylinders, and the 3pt backhoe I have has 8 double acting and two single acting cylinders. I've had several of these rebuilt by one of the local hydraulic shops. For the most part, this wasn't too painful, but one cylinder on the FEL had been customized by the manufacturer. One end had a welded mount to attach to the tractor. There was also rigid metal tubing to keep flexible hoses away from mechanical joints. When I took it to be resealed, the shop called and said the inside of the barrel was scored and it was not rebuildable. Ultimately, the shop cut up my part, replaced the barrel, and effectively built me a replacement cylinder. I'm happy to have it but it cost 3 or 4 times what a generic cylinder would have cost.
Mind you - I'm not complaining - I'm happy to have the machine. Before I got it, it had some weather exposure. The rods on the backhoe cylinders were badly damaged. This was another large expense, but given what I paid for it, I'm still way ahead.
For the tractor, the backhoe, and a rotary tiller together, I paid $. I use it a couple of times a week since then. I've put some money into it but I'm still way ahead - at least until I have a hydraulic pump failure.
I did find a steering pitman in a tractor salvage yard. I've done some basic engine work, and I think those parts are available if you know another machine that used them. If the hydraulic pump fails, I think it's game over.
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I'm brand new to tractors and have depended on my neighbor to bushhog and drop hay for me. I've recently bought myself an old tractor that is an Allis Chalmers D17 series 3. It's all original parts and is pretty simple, so my question is how do I change from the front loader hydraulics to the 3pt on the back so I can my lift and lower my bushhog and hay fork?
Picture is of the back of my tractor if that helps at all.
uploads//Tractorback.jpg
Edited by KKim666 - 21 Nov at 8:54pm
Hello everyone!I have a, hopefully, super simple question about hydraulics.
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Others will know for sure, but I suspect you remove the quick disconnect of the black hose that goes to the loader cylinders. On my D-14 it worked that way. BEFORE you do though, make up some 'spacers' to keep the loader from dropping to the ground. I used a couple pieces of 2by2 steel angle, welded into a U-channel about 8" long. They sit between the cylinder tops and the loader frame. When you lower the loader, they keep it from going all the way down. You can also make them from wood like 2by4s. The 'trick' is to get the right length so that he loader bucket has good ground clearance,but no so high as to cover the rad too much.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
You will have to install a shut off valve in the hose at the coupler.It has to be for HIGH PRESSURE! That system runs psi.Then you raise loader,shut off valve and use the rear lift as you wish.Both run off same pressure supply.
Would need to add a tank, valve and pump, on the front of the crank, to do it right. As set up, the loader fills with oil, so the loader lifts all the way, then the lift arms move up. Cheap way to do it, is to put a gate valve, on the loader input hose, so you lift the loader to a chosen height, then close the gate valve, and the arms will go up...
SteveM C/IL wrote:For more information, please visit hydraulic gate.
Beat me to it by 2 minutes
Do I need another hose the goes from the opposing side of the valve or is it just a valve between the end of the hose and where it goes into the tractor, you turn it to shut it off and to divert power from the front loader, and the rear hitch hydraulics will work?
Please be kind, haha...I am at education level 101. Been having trouble finding diagrams and kits online...probably due to incorrect vernacular.
Okay, so we understand we have to put the loader up and put in a valve...We're a little nervous about popping the collar off the hose that goes into the back of the tractor (See pic). How do we go about pulling that off and being sure that the pressure won't blow it off and potentially maim us.
To prevent yourself from getting hurt or worse yet dead. You must let the pressure off the line before disconnecting it. The loader and three point operate off the same hyd circuit. Which ever has the least resistance will go up to the stop before the other moves. You could cut two matching angle iron pieces to use as ram stops. Raise the loader up lay the ram stops on the Rams put two stainless screw hose clamps on each angle iron and let the loader down. When it stops going down because the angles are holding the loader up then you can disconnect the hose. Now the three point will operate normally because it's no longer providing pressure for the loader. Long term you should put a high pressure selector valve between the two . Or add a high pressure shut off valve to the loader line. With a shut off valve it'll work the same as disconnecting the hose only you won't need to put the ram stops in. A selector valve will allow you to alternate between the two and the not in use item will stay where it is when you change the valve. A front mount pump and complete second hyd system is the ideal way to use both but it requires more work time and money.
When I had the Freeman loader on 'Troy', the hose going to the loader had a 'quick coupler' on the end. I'd raise loader,put blocks as 'ram stops', lower, shut off tractor, get off, release coupler, get back on, start up, drive away. Never,ever had any safety issues.
Now 'Paris', another D-14, has a SERIOUS plumbing issue. PO had a regular water valve in the 'loader hose take off' coupler !!!That was dealt with PDQ !
Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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