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I think we can all agree options are good- but give us too many options to choose from and we can easily feel overwhelmed. And as a result we may find ourselves failing to make any sort of decision at all&#;
This is at least how I felt when I was just getting started growing flowers and was trying to decide on which seed starting trays to purchase.
I mean, no one wants to spend money only to find out later that they invested in the &#;wrong&#; trays&#;am I right?!
And so today, I&#;m hoping to put your mind at ease. In this blog, specifically- I thought we&#;d discuss the pro&#;s and con&#;s to some of the different seed trays out there on the market. I&#;m also going to share with you some of my favorite trays to use; and even give you some considerations to think about when you&#;re selecting your own trays.
So if you&#;re wanting to learn more- let&#;s go!
(Psst.. Want to skip the explanation and get right to the good stuff?! I got you covered, this tray is my absolute favorite for starting seeds; and truth be told, it&#;s the one tray I use most on my small flower farm)
Now in general, all seed trays serve the same sort of purpose- they hold your soil in place so that you can grow healthy transplants for your flower garden.
By planting your seeds in a single tray, it makes it easier to treat your seedlings all the same as they&#;re in the same container. You can water the entire tray at once. You can transport your seedlings at once- you know, when it&#;s time to plant you just have to handle a single tray and bring it out to the garden with you.
For the most part, all of the seed trays that you will encounter, they have the same overall length and width. And they can typically all fit inside a standard bottom watering tray.
The biggest difference among trays is really found with the number of cells they contain.
Cell counts vary widely in trays and you can commonly find trays that have 32-cells, 50, 72, all the way up to 128, 288 and beyond.
Now, the more cells in a single tray- the smaller each individual cell will be. So for example, the cells of a 50 cell tray will be larger than those in this 72 cell tray.
Choosing which cell count to use is based partly on preference and how much room you have available to seed start. And then it&#;s based partly on the needs of the seeds you&#;re growing.
You see, the size of a cell limits the growth of a seedling. Smaller cells leave less space for seedlings to grow.
Ideally we want to give the seedling as much room as it needs to expand its roots and put on top growth so that it really thrives before we put it out in our garden.
During the growing process, if your seedling runs out of room to grow, generally, what happens is that the seedling becomes root bound. When this happens, the roots of your seedling become so entangled that they have a hard time absorbing nutrients from the soil.
Now some seedlings can bounce back after becoming root bound but it&#;s better if we can prevent this altogether as root bound plants can experience stunted growth, delayed flowering, or in extreme conditions, they can just flat out not survive.
Understand that the purpose of seed starting is to produce a robust plant start. So giving our seedling the proper amount of room to grow is important.
Like I said, in an ideal situation we&#;d give our plants as much room as possible. But for a lot of us who grow seedlings on any kind of scale, the problem is that we often don&#;t have unlimited space.
I have a number of wired shelves where I grow all my plant starts. The shelves are 4 feet wide and so on one shelf I can fit 4 trays.
If I&#;m growing my seedlings in 32 cell trays that means one shelf can hold a grand total of 128 seedlings. You know, 4 trays times 32 cells.
Now compare that to if I were growing my seedlings in 72 cell trays. Suddenly that same amount of real estate on my wire shelf is enough to grow 288 seedlings- more than doubling the amount of seedlings I&#;m able to grow in the same amount of space.
Can you see how it&#;s a fine balance between maximizing the space you have available so that you can grow as many seedlings as possible with also doing what&#;s best for the health of your seedling?
For me, the 72 cell tray (with a few exceptions) is sort of the compromise between these two factors that I just mentioned. The reason that I often encourage new growers to start with the 72 cell tray is that for most flower varieties, the 72 cell is sufficient space for a seed to grow into a large and bulky enough plant start without requiring you to repot it before it&#;s time to to transplant into the garden.
And if I&#;m being really specific, my absolute favorite seed starting tray is the 72 cell seed tray that comes from Bootstrap Farmer. I believe that I&#;ve shared in past YouTube videos how I stumbled across the Bootstrap Farmer brand- but 5 seasons into growing flowers, I can honestly say that I haven&#;t found a tray that compares in strength and quality to this tray.
Even full of soil the Bootstrap Farmer trays don&#;t buckle- they&#;re a really durable tray and for me, it&#;s worth it to spend the extra dollar or two per tray because I know that I won&#;t need to replace them near as often.
So let&#;s discuss some instances when I would choose to use a different tray.
If you&#;re struggling with germination with some of your seeds- tools like heat mats and humidity domes can be useful in helping you achieve those ideal situations for your seeds to germinate.
While I look at my equipment as a necessary investment in my business- sometimes you just don&#;t have the extra money to spend so that every tray has its own heat mat and humidity dome.
And so one of the ways around this may be to use a smaller-cell tray to start with. A 128 cell tray is great because you can start a good number of seeds in a small space- and this single tray fits nicely on heat mat.
In my experience, you just have to be careful that you&#;re monitoring your 128 and smaller cell trays to make sure that they have enough space for your seedlings to grow until they&#;re ready for transplant. You may find that you&#;ll need to bump up your seedlings into a larger tray so that they can continue to grow until it&#;s time to plant them outside.
Speaking of more room, if there&#;s one flower variety I definitely recommend you give plenty of room to it&#;s sweet peas. Sweet peas are known for their large root system and for that reason I always use a 50 cell tray when starting my sweet pea seeds.
In recent years, I&#;ve actually switched to using these 50 cell extra deep trays for my sweet peas as it allows for more root development.
We actually use these deep 50 cell trays for an increasing number of our crops- we start our ranunculus and anemone corms in these and I even pot up my paperwhites bulbs in these trays
All of these varieties that I just mentioned are flowers that can benefit from a little extra space for their roots.
Now before you go crazy and grow all sorts of flowers in these extra deep trays- I will caution you, in my experience these trays are little more difficult when it comes to regulating moisture. Personally I feel like these trays don&#;t wick up moisture from their bottom drain holes as well and so I often find myself overhead watering when I&#;m using these trays verses bottom watering. And I just find it a little more difficult to actually gauge the amount of moisture at the very bottom of these deep cells.
I think it&#;s much easier to maintain a consistent amount of moisture in any of these other more standard trays that are just 2 to 3 inches deep.
This next tray that I want to share with you is a little unique- it&#;s a 20 row channel tray. This is something I&#;d recommend if you are someone that hates sowing small seeds.
We all know the struggle that comes when you&#;re trying to sow something like snapdragons or herbs like oregano- the seeds are just so tiny it can be difficult to even decipher what&#;s a seed vs just a speck of dirt. I&#;ll admit, some seasons I have the patience to sit at my seed starting station I&#;ll use a moist toothpick to pick up each individual seed and put it into its own individual cell within my cell tray.
But other seasons, I find myself in a hurry or I just don&#;t want to bother with the especially tiny seeds. And in these instances, I will pull out my channel trays.
The purpose of this tray is that you&#;ll fill each channel with soil, you&#;ll indent your soil to create a small &#;channel&#; for seeds to be poured into. Unlike a cell tray where you&#;re placing one seed into each cell. With this tray you&#;re simply pouring seeds the length of your channel. Usually a single one-hundred seed packet is enough for one channel. As you can imagine this is a huge timesaver for getting seeds started.
Now I&#;ll treat my channel tray like any other seed tray- and I can fill more channels if I&#;d like- but I&#;ll usually put this on a heat mat and place a humidity dome over time. Once the seeds have germinated and my seedlings have put on just a little growth- I&#;ll pop these out of their channel and pot them up in my favorite 72-cell trays where they&#;ll continue to grow until I&#;ll plant them out in my garden.
For a lot of people, having to handle these baby seedlings is much easier than having to deal with the eye strain that can come from trying to separate tiny seeds into individual cells.
A channel tray is a two-step process instead of just one like when you&#;re seeding directly into a cell tray- so you may have to do a little trial-and-error to see if this process works for you, but it is a great work around especially if you&#;re someone that struggles with planting small seeds.
I&#;ll also use a channel tray if I have a flower variety that doesn&#;t have great germination. By planting lots of seeds in a single channel and then only bumping up the seeds that actually germinated I can avoid those instances where I have trays that have lots of empty spaces because the seeds I planted there simply didn&#;t germinate.
Now the last tray that I want to share with you today is a new tray that I&#;m trialing this season. And I&#;m honestly pretty excited about these.
So far in this post, I&#;ve shared with you the different types of trays that I use for my own seed starting practice. Realize however, that there is another method of seed starting that eliminates the need for any sort of tray at all.
This practice is what we call soil-blocking. Instead of planting your seeds into soil held in place by a tray, you plant your seed into a cube of soil.
There&#;s some great benefits to soil blocking- the biggest one being that it prevents your seedlings from becoming root bound.
In a cell tray, when your seedling&#;s roots hit the side of the cell, they&#;re forced to grow downward in a spiral, and left in the tray too long they&#;ll often circle the bottom of the cell becoming root-bound as they tangle together.
Soil blocking, however, avoids this problem. When your seedling&#;s roots reach the outer edge of the soil block and actually come in contact with the outside air, they experience what we call &#;air-pruning&#;. What this means is that root- it dries out and stops outward growth and signals secondary root development within the soil block. Overall you get a more developed, fuller root system for your seedling.
Despite these amazing benefits, I just don&#;t have the patience myself to plant my seeds into soil blocks- it can sometimes be a finicky process and I just much prefer the convenience of seed trays.
Air prune trays are sort of a hybrid method of seed starting that allows you to experience the benefits of soil blocking because the trays are designed in such a way that your seedlings can air prune themselves- but they have the added convenience of a tray.
I&#;ll be curious to see if my seedlings that grow in this tray are in fact healthier than those grown in my more standard trays. For this season, I&#;ve only purchased a handful of these air pruned trays so that I could get a feel for how they perform for me.
My plan is to use them on flower varieties that are particularly sensitive to root disturbance. My thoughts are that if I can grow a more robust root system on those sort of plants, they&#;ll likely transplant into my garden much more smoothly and overall perform better as they&#;ll have less chance of transplant shock &#; that&#;s at least my theory.
I will say that these trays are an investment. Still, they are incredibly well-made trays so I have no doubt that I&#;ll be able to use them for many seasons and in that sense, I&#;m not worrying about getting my money&#;s worth out of them.
The company is the world’s best Leak-Proof Seedling Trays supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
But I&#;ll definitely keep you updated on how these perform for me as the season progresses.
So there you have it- an inside peek into the different seed trays that I use in a season. I hope this blog post gives you some things to consider when you&#;re deciding on which trays you&#;d like to use in growing your own flower starts.
Be sure to let me know in the comments below what you decide on as I&#;m always curious as to what other growers use!
Exactly as the title says&#;this is an easy, no-fail guide to indoor seed starting.
You don&#;t need to read any gardening books first. You don&#;t need any fancy equipment. You just need your seeds (these are the best garden seed catalogs that I order from every year) and a few basic supplies to get started.
Whether you have a dedicated vegetable bed in your backyard, or a cluster of containers on your patio, it all starts out the same way. You have to plant your seeds, and germinating seeds inside your home (where you have the most control) is the best way to do so, especially for seeds that are hard to start.
Starting seeds indoors is ideal if you want to get a head start on the season, or if the weather is still too hot or too cold to put anything in the ground.
Related: How to find your first and last frost dates so you don&#;t plant too early (or too late)&#;my custom planting calendar included!
This simple step-by-step tutorial will take you from seed to seedling with a minimum of fuss. Just the stuff you need to know, and none that you don&#;t. (But if you&#;re the really-need-to-know type, I&#;ve added footnotes at the end to explain why you&#;re doing what you&#;re doing.)
Disclosure: If you shop from my article or make a purchase through one of my links, I may receive commissions on some of the products I recommend.
If you&#;ve already made your recycled newspaper pots, you&#;re all set. If you&#;ll be using other seed starting pots or cell trays, make sure they&#;re clean. (1)
You can also repurpose household items into seed starting containers, like egg cartons, Dixie cups, and yogurt cups. Just wash them out and poke a few drainage holes in the bottom with a nail or an awl.
Dump your seed starting mix into a large tub or bucket, pour in a generous amount of water, and stir it up with your hands or a trowel.
As the seed starting mix starts to absorb the moisture, add more water as needed. (This will take several minutes, as peat-based seed starting mixes are slow to absorb.) You want the mix to be uniformly damp, like wet sand.
Fill your pots or trays with this pre-moistened seed starting mix. (2)
Place two to four seeds (per pot) on the surface of the seed starting mix, and gently press the seeds down with your fingers so they&#;re nestled in nicely.
If your seeds are very small, like basil or mustard, you can leave them uncovered. (3)
If your seeds are larger (like beans or peas) or they require darkness to germinate (check the instructions on the seed packets), cover them with a layer of vermiculite or seed starting mix equal to their height, usually 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
Label each pot. Trust me, you will never remember what you planted where, as most seedlings look the same at birth.
At this early stage, cheap plastic plant markers work great and stay out of the way, so save your big and beautiful metal plant markers for the garden.
Mist your seeds with water. (4)
Assemble your pots in a propagation tray (or repurpose a disposable aluminum roasting pan or baking pan) and cover with a humidity dome (or just plain old plastic wrap). (5)
If your dome has vents, keep them open to help with air circulation during the sprouting period.
Now, you need to add heat. Since sunlight is not essential at this point, your seed trays can be placed wherever it&#;s warmest in your house, such as an attic, bathroom, laundry room, or kitchen. (6)
If your seedling pots stay covered in a warm nook, the low humidity will keep your seeds happy until they sprout. High humidity will make them sad. Only spritz the seeds with more water if the mix feels dry to the touch. (7)
Within a couple of days to a couple of weeks, the seeds will germinate. As your seedlings start to emerge, some of them will look like they&#;re wearing little seed hats. (No need to do anything, as they&#;ll fall off on their own.)
Germination (the process of a seed sprouting) is highly variable, so don&#;t stress if it feels like it&#;s taking forever to happen. In most cases, seeds will germinate within three weeks (after that, try starting a new round of seeds).
At this stage, the newly germinated seedlings need light. Remove the humidity dome or plastic wrap, and move the seedlings to the sunniest spot in your house (preferably a south-facing window).
Continue to keep the mix moist, but not overly wet. Seedlings should be watered once a day or every other day, depending on how much sun and heat they get.
Remember that seedling roots are fairly close to the surface and they&#;re growing in a small amount of media, so they don&#;t need a deep soak the way larger plants do.
I like using spray bottles or squirt bottles, as the gentle streams of water won&#;t displace seeds or damage seedlings.
After your seedlings develop their first &#;true set&#; of leaves, they are ready to be transplanted. (8)
If more than one seed sprouted (or if you sowed a multigerm seed like chard or beets), choose the strongest one and pinch or snip off the others. You can even keep all of them, but be careful separating the roots if the seedlings are close together.
Transplant the seedling into a larger container filled with potting mix. Hold it by the cotyledons (the first leaves that appeared) and try not to manhandle the tiny roots.
At this stage, you can lightly drench the potting mix using a diluted solution of liquid fertilizer or compost tea. Keep it simple, keep it organic, and don&#;t obsess too much over the nutrients. (9)
Give the seedling plenty of sunlight each day (at least 12 and up to 16 hours is optimal for most vegetable seedlings) to avoid the &#;leggy&#; look. (Learn how to fix leggy seedlings if this is happening to you.) (10)
To get your seedling prepped for a good life outside, you can start to harden off the seedling (11) by moving it outside under diffused light for a few hours and bringing it back inside each night.
Over the next week, move it from diffused sun to partial sun to full sun, and for longer periods of time, until it&#;s finally kept outside all night.
After the hardening off period, you can transplant your seedling to its final destination, whether straight into your garden or into a larger container.
And then, in a couple of months, you can enjoy the fruits (and veggies) of your loving labor!
(1) This seems obvious, but laziness gets the best of us. Clean pots are key and help keep damping off at bay (an untreatable fungal disease that causes seedlings to suddenly keel over and die at the soil line).
Discard or thoroughly wash any pots that previously housed diseased plants. Avoid using leftover soil from the nursery container you brought home, as it might harbor weed seeds and bad bacteria.
If you have a healthy garden, you can skip washing your pots and simply dump out the dirt from your pots before using again.
I&#;ve put countless seed trays and humidity domes to the test over the years, and found these trays and domes to be the thickest and strongest on the market&#;they don&#;t bend, flex, or crack as easily as other brands, and can be reused for many seasons. back
(2) It&#;s easier to start with pre-moistened mix, as peat-based mixes are harder to wet down uniformly if they dry out in pots. Although peat has a very high water-holding capacity once it&#;s wet, it actually repels water when it&#;s dry. Go figure.
If you&#;re not using homemade seed starting mix, this is a reputable brand that I like. If you&#;re looking in a local garden center, you do not need anything fancy; seeds just need a basic mix of perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss (or coco coir) to germinate and grow into healthy seedlings. The cotyledons provide all the nutrients they need for the first week of life. back
(3) For certain types of plants, such as lettuce, light may be necessary for germination (the process of a plant sprouting from a seed). back
(4) The moisture will help the seeds shed their protective coating and eventually sprout. back
(5) This creates a greenhouse effect to keep your seeds moist and warm, the key to germination. Most annual vegetables germinate best in temperatures of 75°F to 90°F. A few, such as radish, will germinate at lower temperatures.
Seeds will sometimes sprout in less than ideal temperatures, but the germination period will be longer. back
(6) I like to put my seed trays next to my heating vent on the floor. Some gardening guides suggest placing your tray on top of a refrigerator, but most appliances these days are energy-efficient and do not give off much heat. back
(7) Too much water will make the seeds rot. If your makeshift greenhouse is looking a bit too wet inside, remove the cover or plastic wrap for a few hours during the warmest part of the day to allow air circulation. Mold is no good for seeds, either. back
(8) The true leaves are actually the second set of leaves that appear; the first leaves that initially unfurl are not leaves at all, but cotyledons. These leaf-life structures are part of the embryo of the seed, and supply food to the seedling until its true leaves begin the process of photosynthesis. back
(9) I like to use a liquid seaweed/fish blend, liquid seaweed, or home-brewed compost tea. No fertilizer is fine, too, especially if you start with good soil. I have grown healthy vegetables with no fertilizer through a whole season, and could barely keep up with the harvests. back
(10) Insufficient light makes your seedling spindly and weak as it channels its energy into growing taller and taller, straining for sunlight. To reduce this problem, I like to gently run my hands across the top of my seedling to simulate a breeze; this slows down initial growth and strengthens the stem. A few brushes a day is all it needs. back
(11) Hardening off is the process of gradually acclimating the seedling to its future environment outdoors&#; getting it acquainted with the breeze, the birds, and the bees. back
This post updated from an article that originally appeared on March 19, .
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Seedling Trays Price.