Some hardy seeds can grow directly in the the ground they will eventually be planted (ie: your vege patch or flower garden) however other seeds are extremely small and delicate and have tremendously better survival rates if they are nurtured through the first few weeks, protected.
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You can tell. This is serious stuff.
Plastic trays can be purchased from your local plant shop, or you could try recycling some polystyrene or plastic packaging. Either way, remember drainage is really important (so if there are no holes, be sure to make a number of them at the bottom, approximately the size of a holepunch hole).
Some trays have individual compartments which suit larger seeds and others are open trays. Often seeds are so fine you cannot simply &#;put a seed in each compartment&#; rather, scatter them on the soil and hope that they make it (some packs have 300-500 seeds enclosed)! A selection of both types of trays are handy.
You can recycle the seedling trays and use them over again, however if you buy them cheap you will get what you pay for. Cheap trays are prone to splitting and cracking after the second or third usage (from own experience). The more robust the tray, the more life you will get out of it.
Some trays will come with a plastic lid (this is to help germination). If you don&#;t have this don&#;t panic. The idea is the plastic helps retain heat and there are plenty of other ways you can do this without stressing over a lid. Plastic cling film works, or bubble wrap should too, or a perspex sheet of plastic that simply lays over the container. Or nothing (as we did).
No cover for us, but given our grow-your-own-vege challenge we thought we&#;d give ourselves a good start and build a greenhouse (which we will blog about shortly).
Commonly seen on store shelves lately are paper seedling pots. The jury&#;s still out on these. Some look like deep egg cartons. Supposedly once the seedling is ready for planting outdoors, you bury the lot and the paper composts away etc . I am yet to be convinced. If the seedling outgrows the pot it becomes root bound regardless whether the pot is paper or plastic. And, you can only use them once.
We did a bit of research into planting in regular old egg cartons. While lots of fun for the kids and a cheap option, I think it would be too restricting for roots as the cartons are deceptively shallow. After seeds have germinated they can stay in their container for 3-6 weeks (or more). Some seedlings grow at a rapid pace and their root systems can hinder growth if the trays make them root-bound.
We did have a go at using the recycled paper variety. Unfortunately the seedlings needed to be repotted into bigger pots (as the garden bed it was to be planted in wasn&#;t ready) so we had to cut away the sides to get the roots out. We found some of the roots had already had started to grow into the paper walls so involved some ripping (not so good for the delicate roots). To be fair, they are designed to be planted &#;as is&#; and we haven&#;t had a chance to test that theory yet.
It is really important that whatever container you use has sufficient drainage. This involves holes in the bottom so water isn&#;t trapped for long. While we don&#;t want seeds/soil too dry, they can get easily waterlogged and rot. If you are using a plastic seed tray with holes in the bottom, be sure to &#;punch&#; them out fully before adding the soil otherwise they can clog up (yep, from experience).
Just like a regular pot plant, while the container has drainage, it&#;s good to have a saucer underneath. It keeps things nice and tidy and avoids dirty water dripping where it shouldn&#;t. In the heat of the summer months it is also handy to retain a little bit of moisture in the tray (which by default gets sucked back up the drainage hole and keeps the soil moist).
Saucers can be really expensive! We had thought a car drip-tray could work nicely but they were so expensive we flagged that idea. We ended up using some plastic lids from a storage box and foil oven trays (curled up at the edges to make slightly deeper). Worked a treat.
Rediscover the joys getting back to basics and growing.
The best size cell plug seed trays for you to choose will be dependent on a few factors. We will go over the different options to help you select the best for you. Consider first, what is your intent in seed starting?
Check out How to Size and Use Cell Insert Propagation Trays video for a look at how these trays are commonly used.
4 Cell Seed Starting Trays
Our brand new larger 4-cell plug inserts are deeper for growing varieties of crops that need a little more room. Eight of these removable inserts fit in a Bootstrap Farmer .
6 Cell Seed Starting Trays
Our 6 cell trays have large 5/8 inch drainage holes on the bottom making it easy to remove your plant starts. They also make use of air pruning technology with long vertical slits on all 4 sides to prevent root circling in your seedlings. For easy color coding and tracking or your starts we are super excited to also offer our 6-cell trays in 5 cheerful colors. These are great for gardeners who will be starting a small amount of lots of different varieties as you can remove each type as it is ready without disturbing all the other starts that are sharing its heavy-duty deep tray bottom watering tray. 12 fit in each tray or 6 to a tray.
Shop Bundles & Kits here.
32 Cell Seed Starting Trays
The 32 cell plug propagation tray inserts are the largest cell seed starting tray size that Bootstrap Farmer carries, measuring 2" x 2". The larger size makes them perfect for canopy development of crops. You can also use this size as an insert tray to hold our 2.5" seed starting pots.
These cell seed tray inserts can be used in two ways. Directly plant into these cell inserts with deep drainage holes with Rockwool cubes, soilless media, or soil mediums. The entire tray can be bottom watered using a shallow tray with no holes.
Another way these insert trays are used is as a holder for these seed-starting pots. Seamlessly designed to sit in a shallow tray with no holes, the insert will hold 32 of these 2.5" pots, keeping them from tipping over in a trays and making quick work of transporting them out to the garden space. The individual seed cup style is very popular for school and community projects as these can go from seed to transplant without needing up-potting in between and come in bright colors and now in clear!
Recommended Plants: Tomatoes, Melons, Cucumbers, Pumpkins, Squash, Peppers and other large-seeded crops
Want more information on Leak-Proof Seedling Trays? Feel free to contact us.
50 Cell Seed Starter Trays
These 50 cell propagation trays are a happy medium of saving you space in your seed starting area while still being able to plant a large number of seedlings like lettuce that will be directly transplanted. Because the 50 cell tray has a much larger soil volume than the 72 cell plug trays or 128 cell trays, you will have a bit more wiggle room when you need to transplant for optimal root growth. Plants grown in these trays will be less likely to become root-bound if unsettled Spring weather delays your planting. This size also allows for canopy development of the seedling.
If you know that your seedlings will need to be potted up before they are ready to move outside, you will want to select one of the cell trays listed below or plan on potting up into larger pots like our new 5 inch grow pots with carrier.
Plastic trays of this size are great for planting early greens and brassica crops like broccoli and collard greens for the home garden. Just be sure that if you choose to mix varieties in one cell tray, they all have similar germination times and time to transplant.
Recommended Plants: Lettuce, brassicas, cucumbers, slow-growing flowers, and herbs.
72 Cell Plug Seedling Trays & 72 Cell Air Prune Trays
The 72 Cell trays are the most popular choice amongst market gardeners. They are a good balance between space for growing and seedlings per tray. Each cell is 1.5" square and 2.25" deep, making them an excellent option for a large variety of plants. These plastic trays are also a good choice for vine plants. However, you will want to transplant the vine plants earlier than you would with the 32 Cell trays to prevent root bound seedlings. This cell plug tray is designed to use a heavy-duty deep tray for easy bottom-watering.
For optimal air pruning and extremely happy plants, we recommend our 72 air prune trays. All the benefits of soil blocking without the mess!
Recommended Plants: Sunflowers, Early Season Peppers, Early Season Vine Crops, Early Season Cole Crops (Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Mustard, Kohlrabi, Broccoli, Brussels sprout, Watercress)
128 CELL TRAYS
These 128 Cell Trays are a great choice if you wish to start row crops or many baby greens. This configuration is ideal for starting many seeds but is not meant for crops that need more than a few weeks. Each cell is 1" square and 2.25" deep. You will be able to plant 78% more seedlings with one tray than the more common 72 cell seed starter trays. These 128 seed trays are compatible with the heavy-duty deep tray for bottom watering. You will want to up-pot your seedlings from this size seed tray into a larger pot or grow bag if you do not plan to transplant outdoors for an extended period to prevent seedlings from becoming root-bound.
Recommended Plants: Lettuce, Herbs, Cole Crops (Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Mustard, Kohlrabi, Broccoli, Brussels sprout, Watercress), Celery, Leeks, Flowers.
200 CELL TRAYS
These 200 Cell Trays are excellent trays if you want to be economical about growing cole crops, lettuces, and other small-seeded crops. You will be able to grow ~2.8 times as many plants with one tray as you would with a 72 cell tray. Each cell is 0.75" square and 2.25" deep.
If you are using a 200 cell plastic trays to start seeds, you will need to transplant your seedlings at an earlier stage. Typically once they have one, at most two sets of true leaves. This plastic tray size is most frequently used by larger-scale farmers and those who intend to pot up their seedlings multiple times before moving outside. They can also be used to start plants going into hydroponic systems if you use a soilless media like coco coir or ProMix.
Recommended Plants: Lettuce and Brassica Crops (Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Mustard, Kohlrabi, Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Watercress), Small seeded flowers.
While some experienced farmers have successfully planted crops like beets and turnips in cell seed trays, it is not recommended unless your climate does not allow for the direct seeding of root crops. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, and beets rely heavily on their taproot. This long central root is responsible for much of the water uptake of these plants, and if the root is disturbed or damaged during the transplanting process, the plant will not thrive.
Yes, unlike other root crops, members of the allium family have congregate root structures. This means that they are much more tolerant of root disturbances during transplanting. It is common for growers to plant multiple small seeds per cell and tease them apart for later transplanting.
Starting seeds in cell trays, especially in the larger ones, gives the grower the advantage of being able to start more seedlings in their growing space. This is especially handy for row crops where the grower may want to plant 100 or more of each variety. Growing this many seedling starts in larger seed pots would take up way too much space. The other advantage is that you will waste less growing media starting out your seeds and then up-potting the successfully germinated starts into new pots.
Yes. It is possible to overwater seedlings growing in cell trays. A common mistake growers make is to leave water in the bottom tray at all times. This will eliminate your seedling&#;s ability to get oxygen. Bottom-watering with a can be properly done by adding just enough water to allow the cell tray to evenly absorb it during the watering and no more. You want to discard the excess water as it will become stagnant and invite anaerobic bacteria to wreak havoc on your newly established seedlings.
Related: Easiest Way to Water Seedlings
Most seedlings can stay in cell trays for at least 4 weeks. The larger the cell volume, the longer a plant can grow before it becomes root-bound. Plants grown in a 200 cell tray will typically need to be potted up or transplanted outside once they have a full set of true leaves. Plants grown in a 32-cell insert pot can be kept in protected conditions for 6-8 weeks. Check out our 3.3" seed starting pots and 5" pots for up-potting starts or shop our seed starting bundles.
If your seedlings have been in the plug tray for too long, they may become root-bound. If this happens, you will see a large number of roots circling the plug when you pull it out of the tray. Plants that have become root bound do not produce new roots easily and will often stay stunted.
Transplant shock can also cause your garden plants to be stunted and remain small throughout the growing season. For more on how to avoid transplant shock, check out our Seed Starting 101 Guide for advice on how to harden off your transplants.
If your seedlings become root bound before you have time to plant them, you can improve their chances with a bit of extra work at planting time. Once you have the plug removed from the cell tray, gently tap the bottom of the roots to loosen the soil and use your fingers to tease them apart. It is ok and even desirable to tear a few of the roots when you do this. Separating and tearing the roots will encourage the transplant to produce new side roots and prevent further root circling.
Be sure to share your seed starting successes with us on Instagram and tag us with questions you have about the process.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website cheap seed starting trays.